Fused vs. Half Canvas vs. Full Canvas – Why Sartoria Vienna doesn’t compromise
Posted posted on October 18, 2025
What's really inside a suit?
A suit is more than just fabric and cut – its true heart liesinvisibly between the outer fabric and the lining: in the so-calledinterlining. This determineshow well a suit fits,how long it lastsandhow comfortable it is to wear.
There are essentially three ways a suit can be constructed:
Fused (glued insert)
Half Canvas (half sewn, half glued)
Full Canvas (fully stitched)
Sartoria Vienna recommends exclusivelycanvas or half-canvas finishes– never fused. Learn why here.
Fused Suits – the quick but short-lived solution
Afused suitis the most affordable and widely used option in the ready-to-wear sector.Here, the interfacing isironed onto the inside of the fabric using heat and adhesive , rather than being sewn.
Advantages:
inexpensive to produce
even look at the beginning
Disadvantages:
Theadhesive dissolvesover time – especially due to heat or cleaning
Waves or bubblesappearin the fabric (“bubbling”)
The suitdoes not breathe, appears stiff and loses its shape
No natural “settlement”: The suit never fits properly to the body
Therefore, Sartoria Vienna does not recommend fused suits. They may look neat at first, but they arenot durable, not breathableanddo not meet our quality standards.
Half Canvas – the best of both worlds
In ahalf-canvas suit,the upper part (chest, lapels, shoulders) is provided with asewn-in horsehair interlining, while the lower part of the jacket is glued.
This method offers abalance between quality and price– it combines structure and design with modern efficiency.
Advantages:
Natural “rolling” of the lapel
Better air circulation & comfort
The suit gradually adapts to the body shape
More durable than fused
Full Canvas – the premier class
Afull canvas suitis entirelyhand-stitched, from the shoulder to the hem. The interlining made of horsehair, wool or linen isnot gluedbutsewn to the outer fabric– a complex process that brings the suit to life.
Advantages:
Maximum breathability– perfect for long periods of wear
Natural “draping”: The fabric falls flowing, elegant and natural
Lifelong durability– with proper care
Adapts to the bodylike a second skin
The lapel and chest area shape over time – a real custom-made suit look
A full-canvas suit is a piece of craftsmanship – itdevelops characterand wears better with each wear.
Why Sartoria Vienna does not recommend fused suits
At Sartoria Vienna, quality always prevails over quantity.Our philosophy is:A suit should last for years, not seasons.
Fused suits don't fit this concept. They are industrially manufactured, cheaply produced, and lose their shape after a short time. This contradicts everything we stand for:
Sustainability instead of disposable fashion
Tradition instead of industrial mass-produced goods
Breathable, durable fabrics made in the EU
Our customers invest in a garment thatwill accompany them for a long time,adapts to their bodyandunderlines their personality. That's why:no glue. No compromise. Just canvas.
Fused vs. Half Canvas vs. Full Canvas – Why Sartoria Vienna doesn’t compromise
What's really inside a suit?
A suit is more than just fabric and cut – its true heart lies invisibly between the outer fabric and the lining : in the so-called interlining .
This determines how well a suit fits , how long it lasts and how comfortable it is to wear .
There are essentially three ways a suit can be constructed:
Sartoria Vienna recommends exclusively canvas or half-canvas finishes – never fused. Learn why here.
Fused Suits – the quick but short-lived solution
A fused suit is the most affordable and widely used option in the ready-to-wear sector. Here, the interfacing is ironed onto the inside of the fabric using heat and adhesive , rather than being sewn.
Advantages:
inexpensive to produce
even look at the beginning
Disadvantages:
The adhesive dissolves over time – especially due to heat or cleaning
Waves or bubbles appear in the fabric (“bubbling”)
The suit does not breathe , appears stiff and loses its shape
No natural “settlement”: The suit never fits properly to the body
Therefore, Sartoria Vienna does not recommend fused suits.
They may look neat at first, but they are not durable, not breathable and do not meet our quality standards .
Half Canvas – the best of both worlds
In a half-canvas suit, the upper part (chest, lapels, shoulders) is provided with a sewn-in horsehair interlining , while the lower part of the jacket is glued.
This method offers a balance between quality and price – it combines structure and design with modern efficiency.
Advantages:
Natural “rolling” of the lapel
Better air circulation & comfort
The suit gradually adapts to the body shape
More durable than fused
Full Canvas – the premier class
A full canvas suit is entirely hand-stitched , from the shoulder to the hem.
The interlining made of horsehair, wool or linen is not glued but sewn to the outer fabric – a complex process that brings the suit to life.
Advantages:
Maximum breathability – perfect for long periods of wear
Natural “draping” : The fabric falls flowing, elegant and natural
Lifelong durability – with proper care
Adapts to the body like a second skin
The lapel and chest area shape over time – a real custom-made suit look
A full-canvas suit is a piece of craftsmanship – it develops character and wears better with each wear.
Why Sartoria Vienna does not recommend fused suits
At Sartoria Vienna, quality always prevails over quantity. Our philosophy is: A suit should last for years, not seasons.
Fused suits don't fit this concept. They are industrially manufactured, cheaply produced, and lose their shape after a short time. This contradicts everything we stand for:
Sustainability instead of disposable fashion
Tradition instead of industrial mass-produced goods
Breathable, durable fabrics made in the EU
Our customers invest in a garment that will accompany them for a long time , adapts to their body and underlines their personality .
That's why: no glue. No compromise. Just canvas.
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